Location: Taipei, Taiwan

We decided today to tackle a couple of things that were remaining on my list from the first time I was here, and I was really excited! We painstakingly made our way to the National Revolutionary Martyrs Shrine (painstaking only when you can’t afford a cab and some buses aren’t running due to the holidays). I shouldn’t complain too much though, as our long walk turned out to bring us by many beautiful sculptures and military tributes, as well as the Ministry of National Defence, the National Air Force building and the Navy’s main base. It felt kind of odd just walking past these buildings nonchalantly… oh hi just us. Tourists. Don’t mind us. Nothing to see here. I think I stood up straighter and walked a teeny-tiny bit faster for that entire road.

We rounded a corner and saw the gate to the National Revolutionary Martyrs Shrine, which is dedicated to the 390,000 soldiers who died in the war against Japan and the civil war against communist forces. Democracy and independence are chief among the things Taiwan is extremely proud of – and it shows. Everywhere there are mentions of their pro-democratic values and patriotism. We caught the changing of the guard just on time, and even luckier everybody left afterwards. We were alone in the Shrine, save for a guard or two and a couple stragglers near the gate. I couldn’t believe it! We were able to wander slowly around, appreciating everything in total silence. Bright red pillars held up the golden roofs, while white archways, marble statues and pristinely trimmed trees decorated the grounds. If anyone has been to Shanghai (not me yet!) it was definitely reminiscent of the Forbidden City.

Once again due to lack of buses we walked towards our next destination: the Shilin Official Residence and Park. This was the official residence of Chiang-Kai Shek and his wife while he was in power (and until his death) and we weren’t sure what we were walking into. We definitely were not expecting an Alice in Wonderland-esque garden full of giant plant sculptures and ballerina statues. But that’s what we got! The residence was built on an experimental garden and at some point they must have turned it into a theme-park ish public place. It was nice to spend a little time in nature, although the 20 foot tall plant giraffe playing a plant piano certainly added a little bit of je-ne-sais-quoi. (No seriously I have no idea what it added the whole thing was just weird).

We weaved our way through busy streets in search of food, and stumbled upon the Shilin Night Market, a massive circular market with maze style streets in the middle jammed full with every imaginable food, trinket stall or carnival game. Max dragged me into a bow and arrow shooting game (which I was so terrible at. Rigged! Rigged I say!) and I ordered all types of food we had never tried. At one point we grabbed what I thought was ramen with beef and chicken, but turned out to be a thick vermicelli noodle stew with intestines and cartilage. Yum yum.

We did end the night by eating it under a huge net of red lanterns strung across the entry of a smoky temple, so we were pretty happy despite the intestines.

I’m pretty sure Max was more upset about the cilantro in the soup to be honest!

Sav