Location: Cebu City, Cebu, Philippines
We made it it to Cebu! They put us back on the plane a few hours late but we made it! It all worked out in my favour because it was 6 am when we arrived (instead of 3) and I was able to get breakfast and a coffee – much needed after a long night.
I walked off the plane and the heat and the humidity hit me like a wall. I jumped in a cab, excited to get a glimpse of the city. I don’t know what I was expecting, but whatever it was it was still somehow the opposite of that. For 45 minutes we drove through tight streets of ramshackle houses and businesses. Old billboards, street signs and fading wood made up the walls, topped by bits of tin for the roofs. Scooters weaved in and out of the traffic, which seemed to operate under one rule: if there’s space for you, go there. One lane somehow turned into 3, cars were jam packed like sardines. Colourful spray painted vans with the back doors ripped off and seats torn out seemed to be everywhere, acting as makeshift buses that people run after to hop on and off of (the bus doesn’t actually physically stop to pick up passengers). Locals walked in and out of traffic every single time there was a stop: selling bottles of water, newspapers and food.
We made it to hostel Mad Monkey, which I found out was a party hostel right when I walked in the door. Definitely not a bad thing but I had not prepared myself for the immediate onslaught of party pushing people! It’s 8 a.m.
Is it just me or is 8 a.m. too early to drink? Am I getting old?
Instead I went to my room and showered and relaxed. I called some family and sent some emails, relishing in having the room to myself for a few hours as none of the other guests had checked in yet.
Eventually I went up to the rooftop bar and pool to grab some lunch and stick my feet in the cool water. Within seconds, a very upbeat smiley Canadian named Mike was inviting me to this thing and that thing. He was friends with everyone and it’s not hard to see why. He convinced me to go on a city tour with a bunch of people, which turned out to be such a blessing.
Okay context: I had no idea but Cebu City is not very safe- when I asked the staff about where I could find a laundromat they said 5 minutes down the road… but don’t walk you should take a cab. Also don’t even bring a purse, just the cash you need.
Well jeez okay then!
That’s why the city tour turned out to be a blessing, because a local drives you around to all the best spots, stops and let’s you out to check it out, waits for you and takes you to the next spot. No walking unknown streets involved!

We started with the Cebu City monument, a giant beautiful statue in the middle of town. Across the street from it is the Yap-Sandiego Ancestral House – a house built in the 17th century that had never been renovated. I couldn’t believe it was still standing! The wood was greyed and worn smooth in all the doorways. Hand carved furniture and many pictures of the family that owns the house adorned the walls. Examples of Filipino art was stuck into every available space. We stopped at Magellan’s Cross (a 500 year old cross) and wandered around a really weird church. By weird I mean there were signs everywhere saying to be absolutely silent, and yet insanely loud music was playing inside, while karaoke style screens ran the lyrics to the hymns. You could barely move for all the people praying in every nook and cranny.

We ever so slowly drove up this winding road to get to Sirao (a gorgeous garden full of really cool places to take pictures) for sunset. We just made it before it got dark so we ran around frantically taking as many pictures as possible, bantering and laughing all the way. Our last stop was a mountain viewpoint called ‘Tops’ which was great since I got my high viewpoint on day one!

The group I went with was joking around and laughing the whole time we were touring. I was excited to have immediately found a bunch of people I really liked, but sad to learn a lot of them wouldn’t be around for long. (Brittany, Zoe, Mike, Sami, Matt, Carly).

I was happy to be seeing the city, but it was really hard to ignore the state of things. Someone was living inside the statue base we’d seen earlier, and you could hear two or more crying babies at all times. Roosters and chickens squawked everywhere, while older ladies pushed religious pamphlets at you. Buildings were all falling apart and rusting, while kids were hawking jewelry or snacks, some who couldn’t have been older than four. I saw a few babies Ayla’s age literally playing in the gutter water and I just didn’t know how to process that that was normal.
I also realized this was the first time I’d really been in a developing country like this, and I was pretty unprepared. I have no precedent and am interested to see how my reactions and feelings change as I see more.
It felt sort of surreal to just put that all aside as we returned to the hostel for a glow party at the upstairs bar. I wore a bunch of glow sticks, opened a beer and decided to just enjoy the evening (what else could I do?) and it ended up being a great time.
I signed up for another long tour tomorrow, although I don’t actually really know what it’s for- people just said it was fun?
Guess I’ll find out!
Sav
New People:
- Mike – Canada
- Zoe – Australia
- Sami – U.K.
- Matt – Australia / Mongolia
- Carly – Philippines
- Brittany – Canada